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Our Budget and Other Money Matters

Our Budget. We averaged US$70 per day total for all 4 of us for the 123 days. This US$70 (Aust$100) a day included all accommodation, internal travel, including a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (Nepal) and back, as well as a flight from Delhi to Kathmandu, all food, excursions and all purchases (there were quite a few of these, about US$1,500) and souvenirs. The main airfares were the only costs on top of this. For accommodation, we tended to pay around 300 Thai baht, Indian rupees as well as Nepali rupees for all 4 of us. That's about US$8, $8 and $5 respectively. We found that in general, it gave as quite nice accommodation, or certainly good enough for us. Almost all our accommodation included attached baths, so you can get cheaper than this easily. I guess 1 person's castle is another's hovel, though. If you have a bit more to spend, good luck to you. In all, I would say the 2 kids cost ABOUT the same as one adult would have overall. You can quite easily travel in these places for quite a bit less than this. See also other info pages for prices for certain activities.

Transport prices. Bus from Pokhara to Kathmandu, 7 hrs R150 (but different standards of bus available on this route, this was lower middle). Bus from Kathmandu to Sunauli (Chitwan) 5 hrs R200. Bus from Sauraha to Sunauli (border), 5 hrs R160. Bus from Sunauli to Varanasi (Nepalese) R240. Train from Varanasi to Agra (15 hrs) about (Indian) R220 including R50 commission from travel agent. I say "about" because kids were lower price and we didn't write down individual price of the 4 tickets, just total cost (R774). Bus from Bharatpur to Jaipur 5 hrs R80. Bus from Jaipur to Ajmer (near Pushkar) 4 hrs R50. Train From Ajmer to Udaipur, 12 hrs total for 4 people R364 (again kids were cheaper, but our ticket doesn't say how much). Bus from Udaipur to Jodhpur 5 hrs R45. Bus from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer 6 hrs R80. Bus from Jaisalmer to Bikaner 5 hrs can't say price as other items written in with this cost. Train from Bikaner to Delhi 12 hrs total for 4 people R468. All trains were 2nd class sleepers. More info on Indian Rail travel.

Trains in Thailand are more expensive than in India, but far better quality. For 2nd class non-air con from Bangkok to Chiang Mai in March 1998, upper births were B331, lower births were B540, 12 hours. Buses were a bit more expensive too, but roads and buses also tended to be better.

Taxis are more expensive than auto-rickshaws which are more expensive than standard rickshaws. For both types of rickshaw, costs will be between about R5 to about R50 in both Nepal and India (usually cheaper in India), once you are aware of prices and are skilled at bargaining properly. So local transport is very cheap. A little more for Thailand.

How to carry valuables. Lots of people like money belts. We had one on our first trip in 1991/92, but they always got in the way of our backpack waist belts. Bum/fanny bags are just not secure enough either. We bought a jumbo neck pouch each (Gail and I) made by Korjo available in Oz at least. These are the larger sized ones, which were big enough to hold all our stuff (including ours and the kid's passports, airline tickets, 4 months traveller's cheques and credit cards). They were also more convenient than money belts as you can get to them either by pulling them up out from under your shirt, or reaching in under your shirt and they don't get in the way of backpack belts. We ended up slinging the money belt cord over our shoulder and diagonally, so they sat under our arms (we couldn't pull them up out of our shirts like this though). Quite comfortable. Also, put your tickets and money in zip-lock plastic cash bags so your sweat doesn't ruin them!!!!! Thomas Cook outlets have some that are long as cash and tickets so they don't have to be folded over. They're called foreign exchange bags, or something. Ask your local bank or Thomas Cook office for some, even if you pay for them, they are VERY useful. But not the standard short ones as these aren't as convenient.

Carrying money. We took traveller's cheques (both AmEx and Thomas Cook) AND a Visa card each. But, we used the Visa cards a total of only 2 times in 4 months, both times for our 2 slap-up meals at the Lake Palace Hotel in India and at the Yak and Yeti Hotel in Nepal. I reckon cheques are best. We generally thought of the Visa card as being for emergencies, plus we also had US$500 in cash too. Visa cards etc are virtually hopeless in India, and not much better in Nepal. In Nepal and India you also got slightly better rates for exchange with cheques than with cash. In Thailand, they charge B13 commission and fee for each cheque at the heaps of exchange counters all over the country. In Nepal and India you generally exchange at private places as banks are few and far between and their bureaucracy has to be experienced to be believed! So commission varied, but about R10 each, I think. Shop around for exchange rates!

Large denominations ($100) are best because of the fees for changing as you say. Only take US currency. Have some small denominations (a few $20 and $50), which are ONLY useful (we found) for changing near the very end of a country when you don't want to change a whole $100, or at the airport on arrival in countries where the exchange rate is worse than in most places within that country (e.g. Nepal and India). We found that travelers cheques were most useful for changing for daily needs, and we very rarely bought or paid for items with the cheques themselves (only once I think). We carried half in AmEx and the other half in Thomas Cook. We never had a problem exchanging either, however.

There are virtually no ATMs in India or Nepal. I have heard that in Thailand they are relatively easy to use, but we didn't use any (we were using the traveller's cheque option). Just ensure your Visa is a Cirrus card, as this network is in operation overseas too. If you're unsure, talk to your bank about it.

Haggling. Try to develop your bargaining / haggling skills as quickly as possible. This is something we Westerners are hopeless at, quite frankly, as we rarely get a chance to practice. But, you should view it as being necessary and expected, not as a way for "rich westerners to rip off locals". Don't treat it as life or death, though, treat it as fun, as an added experience to shopping in Asia. As the LP books say, it ideally should be an enjoyable experience for buyer and seller. You should also quickly think in terms of local price, not automatically convert everything to your home currency. That way you will quickly get the idea of the local cost of things, and not think in terms of, "but its only 30c more, what's the difference?" Thinking in terms of local money will help you to build up your bargaining skills. Even now, I remember the price of things in local money, and when asked how much that was I have to convert in my head. We got pretty skilled at bargaining, and so will you. In fact, you will be treated with more contempt by the locals if you bargain poorly than if you pay the fair price by bargaining well. Sounds strange, but its absolutely true, bargaining skills is one way to gain respect!


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