We had a fantastic time at Ko Chang, a low key island if that's what your after, with no 5-star resorts or jet-skis buzzing around, just relaxation, cheap food and cheap accommodation. Only 5 hours by bus from Bangkok, too. Apart from relaxing on the beach, swimming and eating, you can do a few activities. Such as hire snorkelling gear, take a day trip to one of the nearby islands, bush walks, hire a motorbike to tour this big island, including visiting waterfalls with swimming holes etc. So, you won't get bored, unless you're out to have a non-stop party.

This information is for independent travellers on a budget. If you stay in the Banglamphu (Khao San Rd) area while in Bangkok, there is a very strong push for backpackers that want to go to Koh Chang to take a "mini-bus" there, organised through the hotels or local travel agents in the area. Don't do it! By far the best way to get to Trat and Koh Chang is to take a taxi (or an air-con bus) out to the Eastern (Ekamai) Bus Terminal, to take a Government bus. It is quite a way though, and it cost us B110 in an air con taxi to get there from the main (Hualompong) train station (not all that far from Khao San Rd, possibly add another B20 to that?).

The mini-buses from Khao San Rd cost lots more (about B520 2 ways) compared to about B300 2 ways on the big Government buses. You're much more limited in departure time options at both ends on the mini-buses too (IE, only 1 time available). Also, they stop twice along the way, which is annoying. All a mini-bus is, is a Toyota van with 3 rows of seats in it, quite cramped. The Government buses from Ekamai are cheaper, more comfortable and even have food and drink provided, and they only stop once. They leave every half hour, too. You simply buy the bus tickets when you get to the Ekamai bus station, no problems, no need to pre-book. Lots to choose from when you get there. The reason why we know about both is that we went down by Government bus and back by mini-bus (someone gave us their return tickets, we just bought 2 more for the kids). Also, you'd never catch a Thai taking a mini-bus, they all know its much better to take a Government bus.

It takes 5 hours by bus to get to Trat from Bangkok, then 15 minutes by songthaew to the coastal town of Laem Ngop, then about 45 minutes on the ferry (they leave every hour), then 15 minutes by songthaew/taxi to Hat Kai Bae area ("Hat" means "beach"). So if you do take a Government bus from Ekamai they stop at Trat itself, and you just catch a songtheauw (share taxi/utility) to get to the wharf at Laem Ngop. Several will be waiting for whoever gets off the bus. Once at the wharf, lots of travel booths all try to sell you tickets on the ferry. All sell tickets for the same ferry, so check all prices to make sure you are not getting ripped off. Some will include the taxi trip once on the island in the fee (seemed to be B30 to anywhere in March 1998), so be aware of that. When buying tickets at the wharf they will ask you which beach you are going to, so you need an idea.

Importantly, exchange any money (traveller's checks etc) BEFORE you get on the ferry. The rates are VERY unfavourable on Koh Chang. So you need to change your entire stay's worth before you go! There are some banks in Trat, but the most convenient is one about 500m from the wharf in Laem Ngop (back along the road you come in). Ask to songtheauw driver to drop you off there on the way through, it's a hot walk back there with your packs otherwise. They will also offer to change money for you at the travel booths at the wharf, but again it's a poor rate. Another option would be to change before you leave Bangkok (before you go to the bus station), but this would mean carrying all this cash with you on the bus, in the taxis and on the ferry. Probably OK, but you need to be aware of it and careful.

The White Sands beach area (the main area or as locals and LP call it - Hat Sai Khao) is quite busy as I said, so we DID NOT stay there. Instead, we stayed at Kai Bae Beach further south which is a lot quieter, about 15 km further down south (photo of our bungalow , bungalow details). We were there in March which is towards the end of the busy season. But if you want some partying etc, maybe White Sands is more your thing. We had finished 4 months of budget travel through Nepal, India and Thailand, so we were ready for a really quiet relaxing time. So Kai Bae suited us down to ground. But there is still lots of restaurants to choose from, and its not as if you are alone. Kai Bae is also cheaper in accommodation (better quality for your price) and food than White Sands. But you can work it out for yourselves what suits you when you get there. I suggest going to Kai Bae Beach first, then if its too quiet for you then move to White Sands. Friends went to Kai Bae in the off-season (July), and found it much too quiet and only 1 restaurant open. Also, there are a few other areas where bungalows are to choose from, generally even quieter. IE, individual or a couple of bungalow operations alone on the beaches. You pass a few between White sands and Kai Bae. So bear all this in mind too!

Don't book ahead, there are lots of places to choose from. It may take a bit of walking around until you do find a place with a suitable bungalow available, but there is no question you will. I doubt if any of the budget places will take pre-booked rooms, even our budget hotel in Banglamphu, Bangkok wouldn't do it. Besides, everyone who goes there does it this way, so its quite normal, don't concern yourself if you think you have to. We had our 2 kids with us (so we wanted 2 bungalows side by side), and we still found a great place.