Varanasi is an amazing place, so much to see and do. It was our favourite place in India by far. Below is details of the main attractions, food, places to stay and our impressions. 

Ghats: The famous ghats that line the Mother Ganga are the main attraction. In fact, ghats of all types stretch literally for kilometres continuously all the way along the southern bank of Ganges. There are hundreds of ghats (only 2 of which are cremation ghats) that stretch in an unbroken chain along the southern bank of the Ganga, full of people going about their puja and worship, (daily or once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage), or doing the washing, washing themselves etc etc. As always in India, these activities are carried out in public life, so they do not view them as totally private.  As long as you don't behave with insensitivity and just quietly observe (as opposed to openly staring), you will be very welcome in this most fascinating of Indian cities. But remember, there is MUCH more to Varanasi than the famous cremation ghats.

The Old City alleys: We also loved old Varanasi itself where we stayed, where we explored the amazing, narrow, twisting alleys that line the area along the river with a rabbit warren of narrow alleys and streets filled with stalls and shops of all kinds. These twisted entrails of ancient, tiny, narrow alleys flank the Ganga and ghats for miles. The alleys are only wide enough for a couple of people to walk side by side and it’s very easy to get lost, as I did. They are full of shops, temples, homes, hotels, restaurants, schools, public gathering areas etc.  They are all so narrow that not even rickshaws can go down them. Absolutely wonderful!

Other attractions: A boat ride in the Ganges, usually around dawn is mandatory. Lots of boat wallahs will approach you as you walk along the ghats, and they will quote outrageous prices at first. Don't pay R200 an hour, closer to R25 is the going rate. Take an autorickshaw to the point where the barges cross the river to where the Ram Nagar Fort.  The best thing about this Fort is the trip across the river to get to it and the view of it as you cross. Amazing, funky wooden barges, if you are lucky like us you might spot Gangetic Dolphin. The Fort itself is OK in terms of visiting, but not a patch on other Forts in India, particularly Rajasthan. Much of it is restricted and neglected, but some of the museum pieces are good.

At the Benares Hindu University there is a new Hindu temple there called the New Vishwanath Temple that is well worth a visit. It is a bit different to most other Hindu temples in that it is only a few years old, so large and clean. Also, and more importantly, non-Hindus can enter and explore. It is really nice, we recommend it. Other places of worship worth visiting include the Great Mosque of Arangzeb, plus the Golden Temple which is located down the maze of twisting alleys in the old city. We paid a rickshaw-wallah R100 to take us on a for a day of all the more far-flung temples. This young guy happily peddled ALL FOUR of us around on his rickshaw all day, and was good company.

If you have a Lonely Planet guidebook, the Keshari is in the last 3 editions at least. It is just off the main larger road (Dasaswamedh Ghat Rd) that heads down to the Main (Dasaswamedh) Ghat, and goes straight through the main Godaulia and Old City area that most budget travelers stay. So you won't have to walk far. This the area where Sri Venkateshawar Lodge is (where we stayed), as well as famous (trendy) Yogi Lodge (the real one, not New Yogi Lodge, or Jogi Lodge, or Old Yogi Lodge etc, there are apparently many imitators, BTW). The Keshari is down an alley on the left off this road just past the last roundabout as you head towards the ghats. If you have spent much time in the Old City, you'll know how hard directions are to give!! Anyway, it is such a well known restaurant in the area that if you ask anyone, esp. your guest house people, they will tell you how to get there. In fact, our Sri Venkateshawar Lodge people first told us about it. Other restaurants in the area are almost as good.

Don't forget to try famous Varanasi sweets. Small squares of slice confection in various shapes, often with coloured layers in them. They have a wonderful sweetened condensed milk flavour, and only cost R2 each for a 5cm X 5cm X 3cm (1.5" X 1.5" X 1") slice. YUM! Sold in little stall-like shops in the Old City.

Where to stay: The hotels around the river tend to be lower budget hotels, but I STRONGLY urge visitors to stay in that area rather than in the area where the large expensive hotels are (the Cantonment area). That is MILES away from the river and the heart of Varanasi.  There are reasonably good hotels in the river area, particularly the Main Ghat area where we stayed.  They are not all lowest budget hotels, check the India guidebook for one in your budget.

The Sri Venkateshawar Lodge near the main ghat where we stayed wasn't bad, reasonable western toilets, friendly management, close to the river. Its down one of those alleys, but not too far down to get hopelessly lost. It wasn't on the river itself, though. We were there in January 1998, price was R150 double with attached bath. Other visitors to Varanasi prefer to stay in places on the Ganges itself. Prices tend to be slightly higher in those places.

Night life? We were there with our 9 and 11 year old kids (it was fantastic), so we didn't really look for night life. However, there is a restaurant called Ganga Fuji, also in this area but further down the narrow alley labyrinth so I'm not even going to try to give directions. Its near the Golden Temple and Yogi Lodge, but again, ask for directions (also in Lonely Planet). It has live sitar and tabla music every night with your meal. It's a tiny restaurant with very friendly staff, and when we were there the musicians were extremely good. Well worth it.