(Keep in mind we were 4 people, including our 2 children, and we were there in April 1998.)

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One tip: If you are travelling with at least one other person, you can use our very successful "SIT AND SEEK" method of finding accommodation.  That is, when arriving somewhere, go to a restaurant in the area you want to stay. Have one of you look after the bags and have a coffee while the other seeks around for accommodation. You are less encumbered, and most importantly, touts won't chase and bother you as they can't realise you're seeking accommodation.

Use the Lonely Planet (or other) guide book as a guide for hotels, but its best to use it as a guide for LOCALITY of hotels rather than hotels themselves (as hotels can change from "good" to bad, or "bad" to good since the reviewer last visited). So, get a taxi or bus to, for example Thamel in Kathmandu, then do the "sit and seek" (see above).  And by seeking, I mean actually walking around and going in the hotels, asking if they have rooms, and if they do, ask the price (make sure you do, otherwise they think price doesn't matter to you). Then if it's in your price range, actually ask to see the rooms (this is essential and quite acceptable). If you don't like the room you can ask to see another, or leave the hotel and find a better one.

Things to look out for when looking at rooms; Try to stay away from places on busy streets, particularly rooms that overlook that busy street (Asia can be very noisy). Check the toilet and bathroom to ensure it is clean and operational. Check the beds to make sure they aren't too hard, squeaky, or rickety. Make sure the doors and windows can be secured. Check for general cleanliness. This can all be done in a minute or so.  Finally, check out the management, sounds basic but if they look seedy and untrustworthy, they probably are!

Another tip: If anyone shows you to a hotel in Nepal or India, they are going to get a commission YOU pay for, no matter how much they protest to the contrary. Avoid touts if you can help it, you don't need them.

Email me at lockley@southwest.com.au for more!

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Nepal

More Kathmandu Accommodation Info

Kathmandu - New Hotel Florid Z Street, Thamel (No 11 on pg 164/5 Thamel map, Lonely Planet Nepal Guide 3rd edn). R300 for a large triple room, we had an extra mattress. Attached bath. This was our home away from home. Unfortunately, they were starting to upgrade this place near the end of our stay, so it may be more expensive now. PERFECT, quiet but central location. Ph (+977-1) 416155. http://www.catmando.com/com/hotel-florid/florid.htm

Kathmandu - Acme Guest House. Thamel. Not bad, would be great if it wasn't so noisy, good central location. R400 for large room with 4 beds, attached bath. Ph (+977-1) 414811.

Phakding - International Trekkers Guest House. Nice, clean, well run. R50 a double, which is fairly standard up there. (We stayed at the Tashi Taki Guest House on the way back through Phakding, which we do NOT recommended).

Namche Bazaar - Hotel Tibet. Fantastic place, we became very close to Nawang, the owner. Great food, nice rooms good atmosphere. Rooms R50 a double. (Info on our Trek).

Lukla - Hotel Panoramic. Terrific hotel, almost too nice for up there. Great huge, warm and atmospheric dining room with massive glass window overlooking the valley. 'Insulated' rooms. About R300 for a large room with 4 beds, shared bath.

Pokhara - Hotel Sangam Plaza. Central Lakeside. Not bad, fairly central (its not in LP guide), just behind Hotel Snowland. R150 a double, attached bath (we had 2). May be able to do better, though. Ph (+977-61) 23589. Try to avoid central Lakeside if you can, it can get noisy at night. Best suggestion is find a hotel in central Lakeside, but back off the noisy front road (there's HEAPS here to choose from).

Sauraha (Chitwan) - Park View Lodge. Good value, double rooms with attached bath (hard to come by at a reasonable rate here) at R150 (we had 2). Not bad, friendly good location. But not a bungalow like other places, so perhaps not the same atmosphere? We didn't mind, though. Info on Chitwan NP.

Dhulikhel - Dhulikhel Lodge. Nice, well run, brilliant views of the Himalaya from the roof and some rooms. R400 for large room with 4 beds, shared bath. Ph (+977-11) 61753. (It has moved from the old location as listed in the LP guide, its now just north of the main bus stop. Info on our Valley Trek.

Nagarkot - Hotel Galaxy. Not bad but a bit run down. Good views. R300 for large room for 4, attached bath. Ph (+977-1) 290870. Info on our Valley Trek.

Bhaktapur - Namaste Guest House. Rooms from R200 double, but we got 2 for R150 each (bargained). Very friendly, well run, good location. Bath was private but not attached. Ph (+977-1) 610500. Email travel@kumasi.mos.com.np We definitely recommend staying in Bhaktapur for a couple of nights at least.

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India

Varanasi - Sri Venkateswar Lodge. Located near the main ghat, it has reasonable western toilets, friendly management, close to the river. Its down one of the old city alleys, but not too far down to get hopelessly lost. R150 double, attached bath. Definitely stay in the Old Ghat area at least, the heart and soul of Varanasi. Ph 221001.

Varanasi - Keshari Restaurant. The BEST food we had in all India. Great Brahmin vegetarian food. Located in the Old Ghat area (see LP guide).

Agra - Hotel Sheela. Taj Ganj. A STRONG recommendation. Lovely, quiet, garden courtyard, friendly management, nice rooms. Restaurant food a bit ordinary though. Located only 100 metres from the Taj Mahal's east gate entrance! R150 a double, attached bath. (0562) 331194.

Bhaktapur - Tourist Guest House. Near National Park entrance, Bird Sanctuary Rd. Not bad, close to bird park, R300 for large room for 4, attached bath. Ph 321 001.

Jaipur - Hotel Mahendra (opp Polo Victory cinema). AVOID, horrible! (we were in Jaipur only 1 night).

Pushkar - Hotel Mona Lisa. R150 double, attached bath. Nice, clean, friendly, good location. (0145) 72356. More Pushkar info.

Udaipur - Lal Ghat Guest House. Strong Recommendation, our favourite place of the trip. Extraordinarily clean attached bathrooms, friendly, very well run, full of atmosphere. You can even cook your own breakfast in the share kitchen. Located on the Lake's edge, overlooking Lake Palace. R400 for a large room for all of us. Lovely. Ph 525301. (Khumblegarth and Ranakpur info).

Jodhpur - Hotel Arun. AVOID. In fact, maybe avoid Jodhpur altogether, all travellers we met agree, it does not cater well for foreign budget travellers, but the Fort is lovely.

Jaisalmer - Uncle Guest House. Strong Recommendation. This place has 1 room/suite. Big enough for up to 4. It's on 2 levels, plus your own rooftop. It's a converted 300 year old house located inside Jaisalmer Fort. A balcony window overlooks the magical cobbled street below. Attached bath with bucket hot water (they give you an immersion heater to heat a steel bucket of water, so you have hot water whenever you want it). R350 a night (so a little more than other places, but worth it). Ph (02992) 50138 for the associated Ganesh Travels downstairs. Info on our camel safari.

Bikaner - Hotel Amit. Not bad for an Indian Hotel (i.e., a hotel aimed at locals rather than fussy foreign travellers). Bikaner is less of a tourist town, but we liked it. R125 a double, attached bath. Ph 544451.

Delhi - Metropolis Tourist Home. If you have to go to Delhi, this isn't bad. At least stay in this Pahar Ganj area, lots of places to choose from. R500 for huge room (6 beds) with private but unattached bath. Delhi is more expensive. More Delhi accommodation info.

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Thailand

More Bangkok accommodation info

Bangkok - We Train Guest House. Ideal if you want a cheaper place near the airport. Not quite as cheap as Kao San Rd, but only 10 minutes by cab from the airport. IMPORTANT; to get there, first go to the info counter at the airport and ask the person to write down "We Train Guest House" in Thai for the taxi driver (don't rely on your non-tonal pronunciation). Or take a copy of their map from www.we-train.linethai.co.th/location.html Then walk over the suspended walkway that leads to the Amarai Airport Hotel and detour before the lobby to across the highway, then catch a taxi leading north from this small more manageable road. If you don't do this it can add up to 1 hour and B100 to your trip to the same destination because you're on the wrong side of the railway line and expressway.

Bangkok - New Merry V Guest House, West Banglamphu. By West Banglamphu, we mean the area between the river and Kao San Rd. Walking distance from it, but WAY quieter. B240 double attached bath, B140 shared bath (admittedly both very small, but adequate and very clean, they all seem to be small in this area). Ph (66-02) 2803315.  NOTE: accommodation can be hard to find in the Banglamphu (Kao San Rd) area in peak times.

Bangkok - New Trocadero Hotel. Surawong Rd. We splurged on the last 3 or 4 days, R850 double! Attached bath, air/con, pool, mini bar, maid service etc. But the only place we stayed at on the trip infested with cockroaches! Sounds worse than it was. However, we booked into this place so we could store some bags of stuff while we travelled around Thailand for 4 weeks for nothing extra, and this virtually paid for the first night's accommodation.

Chang Mai - Moon Muang Golden Court. Tha Phae Gate area. Very nice, we had one of the family rooms, B280 for a MASSIVE room (15m long, 6m wide!) with attached bath. Good central location, friendly, clean and safe. Ph (053) 212779.

Tha Ton - Garden Home (Guest House). Quite nice bungalows near the river, friendly and quiet. (Card and sign state, "Comfortable bungalow in the fruit garden with natural."). Ph (053) 459287. Info of our raft trip here to Chiang Rai.

Chiang Rai - Chian House (Guest House). North of Kok River. Strong recommendation. Very cheap, B250 for very large double room with 2 extra mattresses attached bath. Very clean and friendly. This place has a swimming pool! Fantastic, wished we stayed longer. Ph (053) 713388.

Chiang Rai - Ga Re Ga Ron Restaurant. The best food we had in Thailand. Lovely little place oozing with charm and not much more than budget restaurant prices. From the night market area and from the Wiang Inn, cross Paholyothin Rd, walk south to first soi, turn right, pass the Won Ton Suki restaurant and Ga Re Ga Ron is on the left. Write this in your book NOW!

Phitsanulok - Siam Hotel. NOT recommended, despite LP guide's recommendation. Large rooms at budget prices, but quite dirty and run down.

Nong Khai - Mut Mee Guest House. Strong recommendation. On the banks of the Maekong, owned by an Englishman Julian and his Thai wife Pao. Lovely garden restaurant area, well run, clean, friendly, great atmosphere. No phone, Julian prefers people off the street. About B350 got us a large room with extra bed and attached bath, but there are cheaper rooms. Very popular, may need to stay elsewhere the 1st night.

Ko Chang - Siam Bay Resort. Khai Bae beach area. Strong Recommendation. Bungalows with attached bath for B200 double (B150 no bath). Ours was lovely, 7 steps from the water at high tide, shaded by banana palms and ficus trees, quiet part of the island and beach Khai Bae beach, not the popular ("busy") White Sands. Ph (039) 530740. More info of Koh Chang and how to get there. See also a website with updated info and photos (they've spent some money on the place by the looks, but it seems prices of the beach bungalows haven't changed - "Category I" bungalows are what we stayed in).

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